Peaks of Visočica – Džamija, Vito and Subar
Plains and springs below Veliki ljeljen (peak in background) and Džamija (not seen to the right)
Džamija-Vito-Subar
Distance: 21.8km
Difficulty: moderate-hard
Lodging: Mountain Hut Vrela. Food is served here; beds for 15 Euros (30 KM [convertible marks]) a night
Getting There: By car to Mountain Hut Vrela. Buses irregularly go from Ilidža to Sinanovići (a village at the start of the hike). More information (not well organized and in Bosnian Language) at the webpage for Sarajevo public transit. Look for info on minibus line 85 (Ilidža – Sinanovići).
Caution:
- There is no significant mine danger if you stay on route. When you to the west of Puzim (the sheer cliff/peak near the start of the hike) be sure to head southwest along the gravel road. DO NOT go east (along the south side of Puzim) as in this area there is landmine danger.
- Descending from the peak of Vito is steep and footing can be difficult, particularly during wet or snowy weather. During the winter the slope can be particularly slippery. Similarly, the steep slopes to the bowl can pose an avalanche threat during winter. Crampons and ice picks are advisable for winter ascents.
This is a beautiful loop through the Visočica mountain range (located ~ 50km from Sarajevo) and is one of my favorite hikes! Visočica is centrally located among many of Bosnia’s highest mountain ranges, so on a clear day this hike offers views of the majority of Bosnia’s 2000+ meter peaks. Džamija (Džamija is the Bosnian word for mosque) acquired its name as a pilgrimage site for local Muslims because of the significant distance required to hike there. Vito is Visočica’s most sheer peak, and both Džamija (1967m) and Vito (1960m) are just under 2000 meters high. Subar is another attractive peak, easily tacked onto the end of the hike. In addition, ambitious hikers could also explore the peaks of Crveni kuk, Veliki ljeljen and Drstva which are located along the route. At the end of the hike, you simply must stop in at Mountain Hut Vrela for grah, uštipci and homemade juices. Hikers should attempt the whole loop on fair weather, summer days. Winter ascents of Džamija and Vito are possible, but generally as separate hikes.
Tušila – Džamija
Džamija – Vito – Subar – Tušila
Download: KMZ, GPX, or PDF (Note: While I’ve hiked this route multiple times, I did not do so with a GPS units. I’ve generated the tracks in Google Earth by using satellite imagery to draw paths which generally follow the route, but may not be perfectly exact.)
You can start this hike either at Mountain Hut Vrela or at the south end of the village of Sinanovići. If you’d simply like to hike to Džamija (or Crveni kuk) and back, park at the end of Sinanovići where the road forks. If you want to hike the whole loop, start at Moutain Hut Vrela so you can return directly to the hut for a post-hike meal.
Starting from the mountain hut, walk along the road south into the village of Sinanovići. On the south side of the village the road forks. Take the right fork (heading southwest). Continue along the gravel road along a fence and through a sparsely forested area. As the road curves sharply left continue straight and into the valley field ahead (alternatively you can simply follow the road). Continue through the valley to the forest at the far end, and then follow the trail blazes through the forested section of the valley. Eventually, you will exit the forest at a small saddle. Continue straight south (following blazes) till you reach a gravel road (the same road you left earlier).
Road to Crveni kuk and Džamija. Mandino vrelo 100-200 meters past the bridge.
Continue southwest until you reach Mandino Vrelo (Manda’s Spring)
Daniel and I at Mandino Vrelo
At the spring, the peak directly to the south is Crveni kuk. Continue up the valley and enter an open area. If you’d like to go to Crveni kuk, ascend from the west side.
Heading toward Džamija, stay south of the gravel road and continue west toward the saddle.
Looking from the saddle the two peaks farthest away are Veliki ljeljen (left) and Džamija (right). From here head into the valley and ascend over another saddle on the following ridge (the saddle that appears here directly below Džamija)
Go over the saddle and continue west until you rejoin the gravel road. When the gravel road winds and passes some stećci, leave the road heading west up out of the valley, toward another saddle. Climb toward the saddle, keeping a lower valley to your right. Pass through the lowest point of the saddle and go along the back side of the saddle until you reach some seasonal springs.
From the springs you’ll see two peaks ahead and two your left, Veliki ljeljen and Džamija.
Veliki ljeljen to the left, Džamija to the right
Džamija is the second of the two peaks (the furthest west) with a spur jutting north into the valley. Head toward the spur. When you reach the spur, follow trail blazes up the spur to a saddle (taking care to avoid deep pits along the way), before heading west along the ridge to the peak, Džamija.
If you’d like to return via Vito and Subar, return to the valley below Džamija and head east, back the way you came, halfway to the springs. To your left, to the north, another ridge begins. Climb onto this ridge and continue north along it as it becomes increasingly sheer. Continue north-northeast until your reach the peak of Vito (~ 3km – there is a metal box that marks the peak).
Continue north from Vito along the ridge. After about 200 meters the ridge spits into two. Descend along the right hand ridge toward the lower peak around 0.75 km to the northeast. Exercise caution along this descent, particularly when wet.
After reaching Subar head downhill to the south east into the eastern base of the bowl below. From there follow blazes down into the forest, staying to the north side of an outcropping/small peak at the base of the bowl (stay out of the stream bed that goes to the south of this outcropping). Follow blazes through the forest, eventually exiting into an open area. Continue downhill, heading Northeast until you see the mountain hut.
Getting ready to enjoy a meal at Mountain Hut Vrela
Wadi Havarim
Wadi Havarim
(with an extra loop toward Ein Zik)
Distance: 11.8km
Difficulty: Easy
Camping: Serpantinot Night Camp (see KMZ or GPS maps for location of night camp).
Getting There: Bus to Midreshet Ben-Gurion (Buses run from Beersheva), Car to Serpantinot Night Camp
Notable Sites: Ein Avdat (Avdat Spring)/Avdat National Park – Avdat National Park is located on the remains of an ancient Nabatean City, Avdat, which was once a station along the Incense Route. In addition, the park is nestled within a canyon and boasts natural springs and ruins from Byzantine monks. Ein Avdat is now a UNESCO Heritage site. We wanted to see the park, but it was, understandably, closed for Yom Kippur (with a park ranger barring entry). See the national park’s website for open hours and admission prices.
This hike starts from the Serpantinot Night Camp just south of Medreshet Ben-Gurion and follows Wadi Havarim upstream to its topmost point. It’s a pleasent hike, and from the top of Wadi Havarim you have excellent views Wadi Tzin to the east.
03 October 2014
On the Friday of Yom Kippur Julian and Hannah – two coworkers of mine – and I raced out of Jerusalem around midday to try to get out of the city before roads closed to car traffic for the holiday. While the city shut down, we planned to head south into the Negev Desert near Sde Boker and Medreshet Ben-Gurion for a day and a half of hiking.
We arrived around 15:30 in Midreshet Ben-Gurion, where an expansive view of the Tsin Valley greeted us.
We descended into the Tsin Valley and arrived at the Serpantinot Night Camp. We had considered continuing along a dirt rack to the Ein Akev Night Camp, but the road was a bit too rough four our economy rental. After parking at the first night camp, we unloaded our packs and headed up Wadi Havarim for a quick afternoon/evening hike. The trail head is located near the Serpantinot Night Camp and intersects with the asphalt road from Medreshet Ben-Gurion as it enters the Tzin Valley. We took the blue marked trail and headed upstream. After ~2.5 kilometers we reached an intersection of blue and green trails and continued in the wadi on the green trail.
Soon after we reached another intersection and continued on a red trail, left, to the top of the wadi. At the top of the wadi we followed a black blazed 4×4 track back to the blue trail, which we followed back down the wadi, but not before taking in the sunset views.
Photos from Wadi Havarim and Ein Akev and Hod Akev
Hod Akev – Ein Akev
Hod Akev-Ein Akev
(with an extra loop toward Ein Zik)
Distance: 27.7km
Difficulty: Hard
Camping: Serpantinot or Ein Akev Night Camps (see KMZ or GPS maps for location of night camp).
Getting There: Bus to Midreshet Ben-Gurion (Buses run from Beersheva), Car to Serpantinot Night Camp, or Jeep to Ein Akev Night Camp.
Other Notes: Most of this hike is in a wildlife preserve. In Israeli wildlife preserves hikers/backpackers must camp in designated night camps and stay on marked trails.
Notable Sites: Ein Avdat (Avdat Spring)/Avdat National Park – Avdat National Park is located on the remains of an ancient Nabatean City, Avdat, which was once a station along the Incense Route. In addition, the park, nestled within a canyon, boasts natural springs and ruins from Byzantine monks. Ein Avdat is now a UNESCO Heritage site. We wanted to see the park, but it was, understandably, closed for Yom Kippur (with a park ranger barring entry). See the national park’s website for open hours and admission prices.
This is a demanding loop with three significant ascents. The stellar views, two stops at Ein Akev, and the chance to see wild ibex make the hike well worth the effort.
Ibex!
While this is a long hike, you likely won’t be able to start extremely early, as you’ll be sharing the nature reserve through which you’ll be walking with the local ibex population. Since the ibex in this area rely on the Ein Akev for drinking water, hikers are not permitted to leave for the spring before 7:30 AM in order to let the ibex drink in peace. Ibex are native to Egypt, Israel, Jordan, Oman, Saudi Arabia, Sudan, Yemen and are currently listed by the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) as a vulnerable species. Currently, less than 2,500 mature individuals live in the wild, and there population is in decline (per data on IUCN page on ibex). You might see some ibex later in the day in the upper sections of Wadi Akev, as we did, and if you do, you’re in for a real treat!
Ibex are natural climbers who often reside in canyons, wadis and mountains which afford ample escape routes from predators.
A female ibex followed by a male. We saw these ibex during mating season.
Start this hike from the Serpantinot night camp and head east on a series of 4×4 tracks. The first is blazed red. At the intersection with a blue 4×4 trail (3.7km) turn left and continue until you arrive at a green blazed 4×4 track (5.3 km). Turn right and follow the track for just under a kilometer until the track intersects a red blazed trail, which, at this point, is also the Israel National Trail [marked by orange, white and blue blazes] (6.1km). Turn right onto the trail going south. Ahead you will see a high plateau and a pyramid shaped peak. The ascent (~250 meters of climbing over 1.7 kilometers) is steep and could be slippery and dangerous in wet weather.
Halfway up the ascent to Hod Akev
Once you’ve reached the peak, continue on the Israel National Trail to Ein Akev (10.9 km). Take a break, enjoy the shade and enjoy a dip in the deep, cool pools.
When you’re ready to leave, exit the springs following the blue trail up the west side of the wadi. Staples at the top will help you over the last lip. Continue south on the blue trail past the top of the dry waterfall overlooking the springs and shortly thereafter turn left onto the green trail heading southeast. Ascend on this trail to another peak above Ein Zik (15.0 km)
Returning via a blue blazed trail/Israel National Trail that follows the bed of the Wadi Akev. Part of the way down the wadi the blue trail will leave the wadi (18.6 km), but you should stay in the wadi following the Israel National Trail/black blazed trail.
Upper Wadi Akev
Return to Ein Akev and take another break (21.4 km). After a pause, climb back out of the wadi and follow the green trail to the west up another ascent onto another plateau.
Continue across the plateau following the green blazes. Be sure to enjoy the view…
… before descending back to the Tzin Valley and Serpantinot Night Camp (27.7 km).
Photos from Wadi Havarim and Ein Akev and Hod Akev
Day 6 – Port Burwell (ON) to Wainfleet (ON)
October 4 (Day 6 of Goshen-Harrisonburg Bike Tour)
The day started early, but slowly. I was out of my campsite by 7:20, but stayed in town to have breakfast (The Lunchbox in Port Burwell is a delightful place to eat. Plus it has a wifi connection), while I waited out a thunderstorm that was rolling through. I was on my way by 8:20 – out onto wet roads. Clouds threatened showers all day long, but I only got rained on a bit between Port Rowan and Port Dover.
A damp day by Lake Erie
The riding was a bit more varied than the previous two days. The route generally followed a plateau above Lake Erie, every once in a while plunging down into little villages along the shore, and by the time I reached Port Dover, I had begun to see signs of business unrelated to lakefront tourism.
The wind shifted nicely today, and I was no longer fighting a strong head wind. After a solid lunch in Port Dover, I hummed through the 30 miles or so to Dunnville where I stopped and indulged in a gigantic, homemade chocolate-peanut butter milkshake.
I must have been particularly absent minded today (this is one draw back of touring alone) and must have spent a good half an hour on my bike listing all the riding verbs I could think of:
HUMMING
CHURNING
PLOWING
FLYING
HAMMERING
CRUISING
COOKING
TURNING THE GEARS
ROLLING
CRAWLING
PUSHING
The things you think about while you’re bored…
I lucked out with lodging again tonight. Around 4:30 pm I arrived at a camp ground at the Long Beach Conservation Area and, not able to find any staff at the gate, went to a pavilion (!) at the back corner of the grounds along the lake and laid out my gear to dry. I talked to a couple campers who didn’t think this would be a problem – this was mainly a long term RV camp ground, and I’d be out early the next morning. Eventually, some staff came by and asked if I planned to camp there. I said was planning to, as it was a nice place to dry out my things. I’d be willing to pay, but they said, “Nah, if you’re here at the pavilion and gone early tomorrow, no worries.”
I think I’ll skip Niagra Falls entirely tomorrow and make for Darien Lakes State Park in New York. The weather is bad; the falls are a bit out of the way; and I don’t want to deal with any crowds that might be there. From there I’ll make my way south toward the Finger Lakes. 511 miles in … that much (and more!) to go.
Distance: 92.24 miles
Avg. Speed: 15.7 mph
Lodging: Long Beach Conservation Area Campground
Route: MAP
Day 5 – Morpeth (ON) to Port Burwell (ON)
Farmland and Lake Erie
October 3 (Day 5 of Goshen-Harrisonburg Tour)
The wind shifted today, so I went slowly. I didn’t have too far to go, however. Port Burwell seemed like a good goal for the day. The town was only 70 some miles away from wear I camped the night, so I had an easy, relaxed day.
Starting this morning, I began following the Waterfront Trail, an established bike route that follows the north shores of Lake Erie and Lake Ontario from Detroit all the way to Montreal (check out the interactive map and downloadable pdf files here).
Following the Waterfront Trail
The route is wonderful. The roads never take you far away from Lake Erie as you pass through scenery that reminds me very much of the Midwest in the United States – flat with industrial farms. Every once in a while, you pass through an apple orchard – apples are very much in season orchard – or pop into a quaint little coastal town. I’m happy to be traveling through during off-seasons, as there are absolutely no tourists out on the road.
Tomorrow I’ll try to get a few more miles in. Hopefully, I’ll find a few more apple orchards along the way!
Orchard near Port Stanley
Total Distance: 71.75 miles
Avg. Speed: 13.1 mph
Lodging: Port Burwell Provincial Park
Route: MAP
Day 4 – Oxford (MI) to Morpeth (ON)
October 2 (Day 4 of Goshen-Harrisonburg Tour)
By the St. Clair River in Marine City, MI
Today was a long day, but once again I had favorable wind (out of the west northwest) so it wasn’t too much of a struggle. As long as it stays flat, I should be able to continue putting in high mileage days.
This morning I rode 48 miles from James and Lauren’s place to Marine City, Michigan. Some dirt roads and detours slowed me down a bit, but I still made good time, getting in before 12:00. Marine City is a pretty town! I was lucky to arrive on such a beautiful day.
For cyclists, the Blue Water Ferry (Marine City, Michigan – Sombra, Ontario) is a stellar way to enter Canada. Both Sombra and Marine City are small towns far enough away from Port Huron/Sarnia and Detroit/Windsor that there’s not much car traffic. The ferry runs from 7:00 am to 10:30 pm and costs only a dollar to cross with a bike (check the link above for any changes). The customs officer grilled me a bit (this is a change from the Balkans!), but she was just following standard procedure. All in all, she was quite friendly and sympathetic [“It’s going to rain!?”] when I asked about the weather.
Waiting for the ferry in Marine City
Solar charger
Crossing the St. Clair River
Ontario
From Sombra, I went southwest toward Rondeau Provincial Park, where I hoped to camp. The roads completely cleared out as I biked through Canadian farmland. Riding with a tail wind on flat roads I absolutely rolled through this section. Upon arriving at Rondeau, however, I realized that camping in Canada is quite expensive – nearly 40 Canadian dollars for a no electric site!? That price tag was enough to send me down the road. I checked out a beach, but was sketched out by a couple of guys on golf carts who were quite interested in the fact that I was traveling alone (This is embarrassing – seriously who gets nervous about guys on golf carts – ha!) so I went on down the road. I couldn’t find another convenient beach access, but I ended up in Morpeth, Ontario and saw a local park with a pavilion – James R. Smith Park. Technically, I wasn’t allowed to stay in the park overnight, but I gave it a whirl. A neighbor said I could crash in his yard if the cops gave me trouble.
I went ahead and unpacked my things and settled in for the night. I’m always happy to find pavilions on a tour. With rain in the forecast I’m happy to have a dry spot to break camp in the morning.
Peace and goodnight.
Total Distance: 109.39 miles
Avg. Speed: 15.0 mph
Lodging: J.R. Smith Park in Morpeth, ON
Route: MAP
Day 3 – Mason (MI) to Oxford (MI)
October 1 (Day 3 of Goshen-Harrisonburg Bike Tour)
I had great wind again today – strong out of the southwest – so the miles flew by as I picked my way through the suburban expanse between Flint and Detroit. I’ve noticed in Michigan that back roads tend to be dirt (I encountered around 10 miles of dirt today), while main roads tend to lack good shoulders. This can make route finding a bit tricky.
I had a small crash today – nothing to serious, but got some road rash. I had just started onto the dirt road that led to the home where I planned to stay the night. The municipal (or county?) government had just watered the road down with salt water to keep dust down and create a hard, crusted surface. On the first downhill, despite my best efforts to go slowly and carefully, my front wheel slid out and down I went. Luckily my rig suffered no damage (I was going under 10 mph), but I bloodied up my elbow and leg a bit – nothing serious, though. (This ended up being the only crash of the trip – so I made out well).
Today was the first time I used Warm Showers – a online network of bike tourers who are willing to host/help individuals traveling by bike – and highly recommend it! I stayed with a couple, James and Lauren, near Oxford, MI. James and Lauren are a cool couple. They’re very down to earth people, very in touch with nature – they live right in the midst of it now (the school they teach at [he’s an environmental science teacher and she leads before and after school programs] is right in the woods off some dirt roads – to me this is an odd, but really neat, placement for a school). James has worked at nature centers and as an environmental science teacher and Lauren has a degree in environmental therapy (I believe). Lots of slow cooking, fresh produce and simple living for this couple – all lifestyle choices that I support!
These folks are experienced bike tourers. They have taken several smaller trips and last summer they went on a long bike trip from Michigan out to California. I had a blast discussing past travels (and enjoying wonderful pictures from those trips) and future travel ideas.
James and Lauren certainly made me feel at home. They took me in, showed me where the shower was, fed me a warm meal of chili and cornbread (delicious!) and offered me a warm bed. I’m glad to have met them.
Off to Canada tomorrow!
Total Distance: 87 miles
Avg. Speed: 14.5 mph
Lodging: Warm Showers – with James and Lauren
Route: MAP
Day 2 – Pokagon State Park (IN) to Mason (MI)
September 30 (Day 2 of Goshen-Harrisonburg Bike Tour)
Looks like fall touring means long nights! The sun set sometime between 19:00 and 20:00 last night – shortly thereafter (21:00 at the latest) I fell asleep – and I slept until 7:15 when the sun camp up. Maybe I won’t have as many day hours to ride, but I’ll certainly be getting a beauty sleep. I managaed to get on the road by 9:00 and had lots of fog until nearly noon. Old US 127 (which parrellels an interstate [69?]) was great all the way to Tekonsha, where I headed east on M60 (good shoulder). Twelve or thirteen miles later 28 mile road (M99) took me inot Albion. I followed M99 all the way to Eaton Rapids (not a great shoulder here) where I went east on Barnes road. I’m certainly heavy – plenty of clothes (addendum: really? Five biking shorts, four jerseys, warm wather gear and one pair of camp clothes – used it all by the end) and FOOD! I’ll get lighter as the trip goes on, but traveling on your own, you simply have to carry more gear. I did go overboard a bit with the food, though. I could probably go another 3 days with what I’m now carrying (addendum: I ended up going 4 days without needing to shop!). I made GREAT time today, regardless. As the day went on, the southwest wind just kept getting stronger. I made it to Mason by 15:10, much quicker than I expected!
I had a blast seeing Scot and Karen. They’re wonderful, fun folks – family who I wish I could have seen more often when I was younger. They’re free and uninhibited, happy to joke around and share all kinds of stories. We had a big dinner – pizza – while Scot and I had a microbrew sampler – 4, 6oz brews that were delightful (the Bells IPA being the best). All in all, a great time. Too bad I couldn’t stay a bit longer…
Total Distance: 87.81 miles
Avg. Speed: 16.4 mph
Lodging: with Uncle Scot and Aunt Karen
Check out the route: MAP
Day 1 – Goshen (IN) to Pokagon State Park (IN)
Pit stop in Howe, IN
September 29, 2013 (Day 1 of Goshen-Harrisonburg Bike Tour)
Today I went to church with Ma and Pa (by car), before we went out to Subway and stared off toward Middlebury around 12:30. Around 14:00 we made it to the Middlebury DQ – much to Dad’s delight – for blizzards before we parted ways. I was sad to say goodbye again after a short time home, but I’m excited to be off on a new adventure. I followed the Pumpkin Vine Rail to Trail from Middlebury to Shipshewana – the trail surface is paved and in great condition – before taking several miles of country roads up to IN 120. There was a bit of traffic, and the road was not as scenic as the first portion of the trip, but it was direct with a good shoulder. I made it to Pokagon State Park around 18:00. I’d suggest this park for anyone traveling through, or for anyone interested in a weekend outing – well kept up, hiking, boating, etc… GREAT STAFF – I’m still getting over (surly) Bosnian customer service!
Supper was an angel hair pasta mix – just add boiling water to the past and parmesan sauce. Works well with a pack of tuna (addendum – amazingly I didn’t get tired of these past mixes by the end of my journey).
Total Distance: 61.36 miles
Avg. Speed: 14.8 mph
Lodging: Pokagon State Park (great place to stay!)
Check out the route: MAP
Off again
Three weeks ago I arrived home from Bosnia and Herzegovina, but before I settled down anywhere I got out my bike and struck out on the road. Over a day and a half I’ve passed through Pokagon State Park and Mason, MI – where I got to see Aunt Karen and Uncle Scot! Tonight I’ll be east of Oxford, MI, tomorrow I’m headed into Ontario. Final destination – Harrisonburg, VA. I’ll try to keep you all up to date here.
Starting from home
Reflections from Bosnia and Beyond 